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Au revoir, fashion month! It was a nostalgic show, with cheeky callouts to many of his previous collections, plus lots of new ideas to bring fashion ever forward.

As the fall collections drew to a close this week, one thing became obvious: Fantasy is over. His models carried grocery bags, yoga mats, and other detritus of everyday life. They were all emblazoned with her signature crescent moon logo. But different characters require different props, which is why this season there was also a barrage of flowers—a reminder to look for softness during hard times, perhaps—but also books, newspapers, and even a basketball. Matching serving tray top is optional. The apple is both a symbol of health and the sinful influence of woman.

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Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community. Demna pointed this out in a voicemail that accompanied his latest Balenciaga outing, calling creativity the new luxury. The collection ditched the oversized looks that took farcical form at Vetements, exploring new, lighter and more streamlined territory. It was a step forward and the video set was utterly hypnotic but was it creative enough to address consumer fatigue? Probably it was a bit of both, with a hefty debt to the sheer looks devised for Bianca Censori by Kanye West. As a marketing message, it worked, even if little of it will work on a sales floor. Both were in top form this season, one delving into tropes of wealth, the other boss dressing and clothing as armour. The brutalised tailoring at Ottolinger, in particular, looked awkward but full of energy. At Noir, Kei Ninomiya delivered powerful, colourful, iridescent goods that made for one of his best collections: a personal take on the very Comme silhouette of stompy shoes and frilly doll-like skirts, that had a jolly kind of lightness. And yet, it was perhaps a bit too nostalgic, a bit too much of a replica. Going forward, it will be interesting to see more Kamali and less brand code. The same cannot be said of the other big debut of the week. Going back to the roots was a common theme this season: a way to reassure clients in difficult times but also a way for designers and houses to reassess their codes and assert a stronger sense of identity.

Louis Vuitton Au revoir, fashion month! Ultra- high collars and waistlines met with flattened sweaters blazers, rick owens abstract, all in autumnal dark primary tones, with the exception of a few buttery yellow and pale pink garments.

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By subscribing, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. The sub-label recently debuted its Cargo Fetish boots , featuring extended-leg uppers that can easily replace your bottom half. Elsewhere, here is everything dropping at Palace this week.

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Courtesy of Coperni. Ball is life. The essential daily round-up of fashion news, analysis, and breaking news alerts. The Court of Justice of the EU CJEU also held that the ad industry association responsible for devising the consent management tool, IAB Europe, is what's known as a "joint controller", with its advertiser members -- meaning it can't eschew responsibility for ensuring the data processing complies with the GDPR. Valerio Mezzanotti. Courtesy of Carven. Whether styled like in the show or as individual pieces, this latest collection will certainly make for bold fall looks and a welcome return to the anti-matchy-matchy, imperfectly perfect aesthetic. The same cannot be said of the other big debut of the week. From sporty shoes to casual options, podiatrists say these are the best slip-on sneakers for women. Courtesy of Alexander McQueen. Bonus: each piece of clothing was made with zero cutting, minimizing waste. What is womanhood if not a precarious balancing act? All rights reserved.

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In his second collection since being appointed creative director for Ann Demeulemeester, Stefano Gallici is finding his vision for the brand. This cordless number has over 2, 5-star devotees who praise its power and battery life. Masculine-inspired shearling coats commingled with easy cardigan sets and denim to make welcome additions to any closet. In Paris, Comme and Its Children. Read my full review here. Ball is life. Experts say you should drink eight cups of water a day. In this vibe of space-age sci-fi fantasy, could they be cages, tree roots, or wires? Not everything was an exaggerated silhouette, though. Whether styled like in the show or as individual pieces, this latest collection will certainly make for bold fall looks and a welcome return to the anti-matchy-matchy, imperfectly perfect aesthetic. The February jobs report will provide an update on the resiliency of the labor market ahead of the Federal Reserve's next policy decision on March